No Lima Without Barranco

Peru, cocuklugumdan beri hayalini kurdugum ulkelerin en basinda geliyordu. Fakat bir suru cennetin bile yaninda sonuk kaldigi tropik adalar, kitalar varken daglarin hukum surdugu bu ulkede beni neyin bu kadar cezbettigini (Machu Picchu’nun varligi disinda) bir turlu kendime bile aciklamakta zorlanirken icimdeki Peru’ya gitme istegini de bir turlu dindiremiyordum. Tek bir care vardi; iki kisilik gidis-donus bileti ve kaldirilan kisliklari yeniden cikartip guzel bir valiz hazirlamak. Ikisini de yapmak, gezmeyi seven biz iki macerasever icin pek zahmetli olmadi. Peru bizi cagiriyormus da haberimiz yokmus. Bizimle bu macerayi paylasmaya var misiniz ?

Peru is one of the country that I’ve been dreaming since I was a little girl. But, while there are many other heavenly places in the world, I couldn’t even explain myself what is in this country magnetises me (except Machu Picchu of course)? Where is coming from this desire dragging me to Peru ? I had one solution to find out the answer: buying a round ticket and finding my winter clothes to prepare a well equipped luggage. Doing both of them wasn’t really difficult for the two adventure and travel lovers. Peru was calling us… Are you ready to share this adventure with us ?

Paris’te baslayan maceranin ilk duragi Lima. Hava 20li derecelerde, serin ve nemli. Taksilerle ilgili pek hos seyler duymadigimizdan ve gelirgelmez kotu bir deneyim yasamak istemedigimizden, seyahat oncesi hostelimizden bizim icin bir taksi ayarlamasini rica ettik. Ama oncesinde pasaport kontrolu var. Turk pasaportumu goren polis memuresi , siz Turkleri ve dizilerinizi cok seviyoruz derken sanki o dizilerden cikmis aktiristlerden birini gormuste sevinmis gibi giris iznini veriyor. Arkada bekleyen sabirsiz turistler olmasa benimle saatlerce dizi kritikleri yapmaya hazir ama acikcasi benimde yabanci oldugum bir konu su turk dizileri o yuzden, pérdoname señora! Kapidan cikinca bekleyenler arasinda ismimizi goruyoruz. Guler yuzlu taksi soforumuz dakik. Trafigin neredeyse felc oldugu havaalani yolu hic bitmeyecekmis gibi gelsede, biraz havamizi degistirsin diye yine o meshur oyunumuzu oynamaya basliyoruz;  her yeni ulke ziyaretinde ucaktan inis saati ne olursa olsun, taksi ya da otobus pencerelerinden disariya bakip bu zamana kadar gittigimiz diger ulkelerden ortak bir seyler bulmaya calisiyoruz. Taksi icerisinde, egzoz gazina bogulmusken bundan daha sacma ve eglenceli ne oynanabilirdi ki zaten 🙂

The first stop of our adventure is Lima. It’s around 20C; chilly and humid. As we didn’t read nice things about airport taxis, we asked beforehand to our hostel to send us a taxi to welcome us. But first the passport control. Suddenly my Turkish passport (which is not nicely welcomed everywhere) cheers the police officer up. Then, she explains how Turkish and our TV series are famous in Peru and many Latin American countries (that was something I’ve already heard from a friend who’s been recently in Peru, Colombia and Brazil). If there wasn’t many impatient tourist mass waiting behind me, she was passionate enough to make some critics about the series which are not something I’m familiar with at all. Pérdoname señora! After going out from the airport, we see our name inside the crowd. Our driver looks friendly and punctual. Although the traffic ties-up and seems that we stuck in this chaos for a while, we decided to play our traditional window game to ignore the mess; in each big trip, doesn’t matter the arrival time, after taking taxi or bus, whatever, we look around and try to find something mutual with other countries we’ve been so far. In this chaos, nothing could be more stupid and funny than that game ! 

Lima, Peru’nun tum guzelliklerinin altinda ezilmis kapital. Sehre girdiginiz ilk andan itibaren biraz aydinlik, sadece birazcik isik diyorsunuz ama yok nafile. O bekledigimiz isik ancak kis mevsiminde gelecek, keske biraz daha erken gelseydiniz diyor Limalilar o zaman gercek Limayi gorurdunuz. Aslinda guzel oldugunu biliyor da, kafayi orasindaki burasindaki kusurlara takmis kadinlar gibi bu sehrin insanlari. Hep kisin gelmeli buralara cumlesi dillerinde. Biz onlara aldirmiyoruz, Lima her haliyle guzel diyip aydinlatiyoruz yuzlerini. Cunku Kutsal Vadi’nin en guzel zamanindayiz, bunu biliyoruz. (Yani Mayis-Ekim arasi) Evet, kisacasi Lima’nin ustunde hep bir bulut yigini, hep bir karanlik ama Barranco’nun renkli caddeleri ve Miraflores’in birbiriyle yarisan dunyaca unlu sefleri Lima’yi vazgecilmez kilmaya yetip de artiyor bile.

Lima, the capital that is crushed under the other beauties of Peru. From the beginning of your stay the first and the only thing you’ll be looking for is light, a little bit of light. “The light you’re waiting for will come back during the winter, you should have came at that time, this is not real Lima” says everyone we met in this city. They are like a woman who knows that she is beautiful but pumps her brain to her imperfection. The only thing they complain that we’re not in the right time in the right place, Lima. Still, we don’t pay attention the rumours, on the contrary, we try to convince them that the weather doesn’t matter to us. Because we know that this is the right time for the Sacred Valley (between May and October). Well, yes there is always a cloud smother over Lima, but the colourful streets of Barranco and the world-famous chefs of Miraflores are definitely enough to make this city a must !

Konaklamak icin sehrin en bohem bolgesi Barranco’yu seciyoruz. Lima’nin siyah beyaz atmosferini biraz da olsun birbirinden guzel muzeleriyle ve hareketli gece hayatiyla renklendiren bu kucuk semti cok seviyoruz. Miraflores’in zengin ve modern yapilarinin arasinda dolasirken kaybettiginiz Guney Amerika ruhunu kesinlikle burada yakalayacaksiniz. Ayrica bu Barrancolularin duvarlarla olan sanat iliskisi de ayrica gormeye deger. Girdiginiz her sokak sizi guzel bir sürprizle karsiliyor. Derin bir nefes alin, gozlerinizi iyi acin, kameralarinizi hazirlayin ve bu gorsel solenin tadini cikartin.

Barranco, the bohemian part of the city and our home for three days… We love this little area that livens up the monochrome atmosphere of Lima thanks to its beautiful museums and non-stop night life. Be sure that you’re going to find the South American soul which you lost in the cold, bling bling and modern streets of Miraflores. Also, it’s a must see the walls in here. Every street you enter, welcomes you with a little surprise. So, take a deep breath, open your eyes, prepare your cameras and enjoy this visual feast ! 

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Muzeler demistim degil mi? Evet, muzeler… Ilk duragimiz Peru’lu unlu moda fotografcisi Mario Testino’nun muzesi tabi ki. MATE, somurge zamaninin tekrardan yenilenmis evlerinden birisi icine kurulmus, gezerken, her odasindan ayrica keyif alacaginiz guzel bir muze. Biletinizi alirken size uc muze (MATE, OSMA, MAC) icin kombine istermisiniz diye sorduklarinda reddetmeyin;(32 soles) MAC disinda her muzenin ici kadar disi da bir gorsel solen. Benden soylemesi…

I said museums, right ? Yes, museums… First stop is MATE, set up by very famous Peruvian fashion photographer Mario Testino.  In an old renovated colonial house, many iconic photos of him is waiting for you. While taking your ticket, they ask you; if you want a combined discounted ticket for three museums(MATE, OSMA, MAC) costs 32 soles. Don’t refuse that offer ! Because as much as the interior, the exterior of the museums are worth to see except MAC. 

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Ikinci duragimiz hemen yanindaki, Peru’nun en iyi resim koleksiyonlarindan birini bulabileceginiz Pedro de Osma Muzesi. Sizleri somurge donemine, kucuk bir gezintiye cikartan koridorlarinda dolanirken, karsinizda muazzam bir bahceye acilan kapiyi gordugunuzde heyecandan her seyi birakip kendinizi disariya atacaksiniz. Oncelikle palmiye agaclari karsilayacak sizi. Kafanizi yavas yavas asagiya indirdiginizde beyaz ile yesilin mukemmel uyumu karsisinda buyuleneceksiniz. En kisa zamanda yolunuz bu guzel ulkeye, sehre ve muzeye dussun. Ne demek istedigimi o zaman anlayacaksiniz.

The second stop is Pedro de Osma Museum where you’ll find one of the most interesting selections of Peruvian colonial art. While passing into the beautifully preserved rooms and corridors, you’ll see a door opens to an amazing garden. The palm trees will greet you. Slowly, you’ll move your head down: the unity of green and white, enough to be dazed… 

Sira muzelerin en gosterissizi, en kucugu, en sadesi ama en isyankari MAC’ te yani Lima Modern Sanatlar Muzesi. Peru’nun modern sanatlara bakisini en iyi sekilde gorebileceginiz yerlerden bir tanesi. Biraz sonra karsima cikacaklardan habersiz giriyorum muzeye. Ilk girdigim galeride (zaten iki yada uc galeriden olusuyor muze) karsima cikan bir tablonun onunde dakikalarca duruyorum. Tanidik renkler, desenler… Hafizamin icinde yapilan kucuk bir yolculuktan sonra, Peru seyahatine damgasini vuran Kanaku Y El Tigre grubunun yeni albumunun kapak fotografi oldugu ancak aklima geliyor. Iyice etrafimi kontrol ediyorum. Tamam, asayis berkemal. Basiyorum kahkahayi… Peru’ya gidin ya da gitmeyin ama bu muhtesem Peru’lu grubu dinleyin. Benim favorim Si Te Mueres Mañana. Sizin ki hangisi? Hadi dinleyin de yazin bana.

The last one of this triplet and at the same time the smallest, the most unassuming but the most rebellious one. MAC, Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Lima. This is one of the best place that gives you a small glimpse into modern art the way a Peruvian would. I enter the museum unaware what’s going to happen in couple of minutes. In the first gallery I step into (There are two or three galleries in total ), I fizzle about 5 minutes. The colours, patterns are so common.  After a little, deep trip into my memory, I realise that it’s the original version of the cover pic of the newest album of Peruvian band Kanaku Y El Tigre which made a mark during all my trip in Peru. I check around inside the gallery. Ok, it’s safe, there is no one around. A can laugh like a hell… I feel good ! You visit Peru or not, listen this amazing band. My favourite one is Si Te Mueres Mañana. What’s yours ? Listen and write me ! 

Madem muzeler’den bahsediyoruz bu uclunun babasi diye adlandirdigim Larco Muzesi’ne cevirelim yonumuzu. Sehrin en gorulmesi gereken yerlerinin basinda geldigini hatirlatayim. Eger sizde benim gibi seramik hayraniysaniz, tum ayrintilarini zamana karsi koruyabilmis Pre-Columbian ve sonrasindan kalma yuzlerce eserin icinde kaybolmak, Kutsal Vadi’ye varmadan once Inkalar hakkinda bilgi edinmek istiyorsaniz kesinlikle dogru yerdesiniz. Ayrica Osma Muzesi gibi burasi da mimari bakimdan bir gorsel solen. Daha iceriye girmeden, biran once turu bitirip bahceyi kesfe cikmak icin sabirsizlaniyorsunuz. Bu guzel bahcenin icerisinde bir de restorant bulacaksiniz. Ufak bir kahve molasi fena olmazdi.

As we’re talking about museums, let’s turn our route through the father of these three of them, Museo Rafael Larco Herrera. I should remind that this one of the must sees in town. If you’re so into pottery, like me, this is a heaven for you. This museum has endless artefacts made of clay, that maintain their details remarkably. Especially, if you’re planning to visit the “Sacred Valley”, you should definitely visit this museum. And the museum even has a so to speak “comic” part: “Sala Erotica”, where you can see the sex was of great value between Incas… After all this, you can relax in the beautiful garden with a coffee or even a meal in the museum’s restaurant. I wouldn’t say no to a coffee ! 

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Muzeleri geride biraktigimiza gore bir diger en onemli konu ne yiyecegimiz tabi ki. Lima’nin cirkinligi, icinden birbirinden yetenekli sefler cikartmasina engel olmamis tabiki. Renkli tabaklar, renkli restaurantlar bu sehrin sisli atmosferini degistirmeye yeter de artar bile. Ozaman Barranco’da yeteri kadar kultur yuklemesi yaptiktan sonra yonumuzu dunyanin en bilindik gastronomi bolgelerinden Miraflores’e cevirelim. Peru diyince akla gelen ilk sey “cebiche”. Buradaki ilk ceviche deneyimimiz icin La Mar Cevicheria‘ dayiz ve sonuc mu-kem-mel !

As we left the museums behind us, another important issue is “what to eat, where to eat” . The ugliness of Lima isn’t an interference for the brilliant chefs, of course. Colourful plates and restaurants can suddenly change the gloomy atmosphere of Lima. So, after being full up intellectually in Barranco , it’s time to fill our stomaches around chic Mirafilores, one of the most famous gastronomic district all around the world. When you say Peruvian cuisine, the first thing comes to mind is “ceviche”. For our first Peruvian cebiche experience we’re in La Mar Cevicheria. The result ? Just de-li-ci-ous !!! 

Bir diger ogle yemegi noktasi ise dunyaca unlu sef Rafael’in El Mercado‘su. Adini tasiyan diger restorantinda son dakikaci oldugumuzdan yer bulamasakta Mercado’da  izgara deniz taragi ve ahtapot gibi sefin en bilindik sunumlarini tattigimiz icin cok mutluyuz. Hayatimda yedigim en guzel ahtapotu burada yedim diyebilirim.

Another lunch spot is culinary star chef Rafael’s El Mercado. Although we could’t find a place in his very chic restaurant called Rafael, we’re happy to taste his two of well known dishes; grilled scallops and octopus. It was the best octopus I’ve ever tasted! 

Cenral ve Astrid & Gastón gibi cok taninmis restorantlarin adini her rehberde yada makalede okuyacaginizi simdiden  sizlere duyurayim. Biz yine son dakikaci davrandigimizdan yer bulamadik. Fakat Amaz da yasadigimiz deneyim “iyi ki de yer bulamamisiz” dedirtti bize.

 Cenral and Astrid & Gastón are some of the most famous restaurants of Peru. I must say that you’ll notice their names in many guides and articles. As these places don’t deserve last-minute reservation, you should pay an attention. Apart from those famous ones, I want to offer you a less touristic experience in AmazI’m sure that this Amazon-influenced restaurant will please you. 

Nereden ne alalim konusuna gelince, ilk duraginiz Lima ise ve ilerleyen gunlerde Cusco kucaklarini acmis sizleri bekliyorsa, Lima’nin aceleci turist dukkanlarini soyle bir kolacan edin ama cuzdanlarinizin agzini hemen oracikta acmayin derim. Daha bol cesidin, cok daha uygun fiyatlara Cusco’da mutlaka karsiniza cikacagindan emin olun. Bu yuzden gozunuze kestirdiklerinize Cusco’da tekrar gorusmek uzere veda edin. Sizlere bu “gormeye” deger dukkanlardan bahsedeyim birazcik ozaman.

Some shopping ? If you’ll be visiting Cusco in the coming days, you don’t need to get the hump to buy something in Lima. Because you’ll have more choices for the cheaper prices in Cusco.  Of course, nothing keeps your way! Although you don’t buy anything, you should definitely visit beautiful shops of Lima. Some of them are really worth to see ! 

  • Amazonlardan, Titikaka golune kadar uzanan Peru’ya ait geleneksel, el emegi ne varsa bulabileceginiz nadir yerlerden olan Las Pallas‘i gormeden donmeyin.
  • The amazing, colourful and traditional handicrafts coming from all around Peru (from Amazons to The Lake Titicaca) are presented like an art work in Las Pallas. You should have a look and have an idea about Peruvian traditions. In this way, you can have a brief idea about Peruvian culture for your next purchase. 
Las Pallas
Las Pallas
  • Hem sanat galerisi, hem yine Peru’nun her bolgesinden lokal artistlerin islerini bulabileceginiz, icice birkac evin bilesmesinden olusan devasa bir butik, hem de avlusunda organik lezzetler sunan bir cafe… Evet, Dédalo aradiginiz yer olabilir.
  • Dédalo sells a wide array of thing from local artisans. They have a great selection of jewelry that ranges from tradition, to very modern, and . . modern takes on tradition, as well as furniture, functional things for your house, clothing, books, and a little of everything. It’s like a permanent craft fair (but only the really good stuff) / coffee shop / art gallery and always worth an hour or two.
Délado
Délado

  • Eger eve biraz daha essiz bir seyler gotureyim diyorsaniz Cusco’da da bir subesi bulunan sanat galerisi kivaminda bir butik olan Puna‘yi gidilecekler listesine ekleyin mutlaka.
  • Peru’lu modacilari yakindan tanimak isterseniz Alessandra Petersen ve Susan Wagner kesfetmekten buyuk zevk duyacaginiz iki unlu modaci. Miraflores’teki bu iki atolyeye bir goz atin .
  • Bir de Peru’ya gelipte kayitsiz kalamacaginiz en onemli alisveris sebeplerinden birisi is Alpaka! And Daglari’nda yasayan bu sirin hayvanin tuyunden yapilan urunleri her onunuze gelen yerden almamanizi oneririm. Peru’nun en bilindik markasi, her sehirde, her kose basinda karsiniza cikan SOL’un belki de yuzuncu magazasina da girdikten sonra, cizgisinden, renklerinden ve kalitesinden emin olup tum hediyelik esya alisverisine son noktayi burada koyuyoruz.
  • Yorgun, bitkin ve heyecanli bir sekilde otelimize donup yeniden valiz hazirlamaya basliyoruz. Yolculuk cocukluktan beri hayali kurulan Nazca’ya !

 

  • Puna is full of Peruvian pop-culture pieces. Go here if you want to bring something home that is different from the average gift/ souvenir. There is an another branch in Cusco so, if you miss it in Lima don’t feel sad. 
  • Alessandra Petersen and Susan Wagner are one of the two famous fashion designers that you may want to discover. Have a look at their shops in Miraflores. 
  • Alpaca is something you can’t be indifferent while you’re in Peru. At the same time it’s something that you shouldn’t buy anywhere. If you don’t have enough knowledge about different kind of alpaca qualities, you can trust the brand called SOL. It’s a very well known, stylish, high quality brand that you can find in every corner of the big cities in Peru. After entering 100th SOL, we finish the biggest part of our shopping. 
  • Back to our hotel room… We’re exhausted but never loose our excitement. Our last night in Lima. Luggages are ready.  Because the most scenic flight of our life is waiting for us. Direction is Nazca ! 

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