Burmese Days

“Heureux qui, comme Ulysse, a fait un beau voyage”

“Happy is he, who like Ulysses, has made a good voyage”

                                                            Du Bellay

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Bu zamana kadar gittiğiniz bütün yerleri unutun, derin bir nefes alın ve soyleyeceklerime kulak verin.

Myanmar bir diger adıyla Burma, politik sorunlarindan dolayı gitmeyi ertelediğiniz veya hiç aklınızda olmayan bir yer olabilir. Belki tamamen demokratiklesmesini bekliyorsunuzdur. Bir digeriniz Muslumanlarla Budistler arasindaki dini problemlerin cozulmesini, etnik azinliklarla suren silahli catismalarin bitmesini bekliyordur. Digeriniz ise yillarca suren fasist cuntanin 20 yil boyunca ev hapsi verdigi ve 2010 da serbest kalan Nobel barış odullu Daw Aung San Suu Kyi’nin Ingiliz vatandaşı iki ogluna ragmen basa gelip, tarihi yeniden yazmasini bekliyordur. Burma Kasım 2015’de kaderine yeniden yön vermek icin yılın genel secimlerini yaptı ve ilk adimi attı. Burma zaten “değişiyor” ve “gelişiyor”. Siz hala neyi bekliyorsunuz ? Tatil tabularınızı bir kenera birakin  ve Burma evrensellesip, acimasizca insanları kendi iclerine kapanmaya zorlamıs eski Asya dokusunu kaybetmeden önce gidin. Ulkenin uzak kiyilarinda kalmis koylerindeki insanlar günlük yasamlarini turistlere uyarlamadan, sizlere olan merakları tükenmeden, restoran menülerinde veya tabelalarda Ingilizce’ye gecilmeden önce gidin. Yerel halkin giyim sitilini – erkekler uzun etege benzeyen longyi giyiyorlar ve kadinlar yuzlerine geneksel makyajlarinin vazgecilmez parcasi thanakha sürüyorlar- evrensel moda kurallarına uyarlamadan önce gidin. Refahın, zenginliğin ve paranin henüz buraları çirkinleştiremediğine ve bu topraklarda Budizm’i tum safligiyla insanlarin hala nasil canli tutabildigine sahit olmak icin gidin. Henüz herkesler gitmeden önce gidin, gorun ve hissedin ! Döndüğünüzde bambaşka bir benliğinizle tanisacaksiniz !

Forget about everywhere you’ve been to until today, take a deep breath and lends your ears to what I’m saying.

Myanmar or Burma, may not be a place you’re planning to go or maybe you’re just delaying your visit. You’re delaying because; you are waiting for the political problems to end. You might be waiting for the problems between Muslim and Buddhist communities to settle down and the armed conflict with minority ethnic groups to be resolved. Or others might simply be waiting for the Nobel Peace Prize winner Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, who had been home prisoned about 2 decades by a fascist junta and freed in 2010, to lead the country democratically despite of the interference that her two sons have English nationality. Myanmar in November 2015,  already took the first step to change their destiny.  The Aung San Suu Kyi’s National League for Democracy came to power during this historical general election. So, the country is already “developing” and “changing” . What are you still waiting for? Put away your travelling taboos and go to Burma before it becomes an “international” tourist spot. Go there to experience the old Asia before it loses its tissue and soul. Go there before the local people accustom their daily life to tourists and lose their interest or curiosity about you. Go there before they change the restaurant menus or the signs into English. Go there before they change their traditional clothes – men wears skirt-like longyi, women smothered in thanakha (traditional make-up)- with the globally “accepted” fashion norms. Go there before money enters from the frontiers and uglify, deform everything. Go there before the mystical purity of Buddhism is lost. Go there, be there and feel it before the whole world does ! When you come back, I guarantee that you are going to meet another side of youself !

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Bangkok’ta gecirdigimiz bir gunden sonra yola koyuluyoruz fakat orayi bir baska yaziya sakliyorum. Oglen saatlerinde Mandalay’e variyoruz ve asil maceramiz tam da o gun basliyor. Gumruk islemlerini bitirdikten sonra bizi Bagan’a goturecek soforumuz karsiliyor. Longyi denen geleneksel kiyafetle ilk defa onun sayesinde tanisiyoruz. Havaalanindan disariya adim attigimizda ve Bangkok’ta karsilastigimiz nemli havadan eser yok. Sicaklik yerinde. Gececegimiz buyulu yollardan haberimiz olmadan, arabaya biniyoruz. Yolculuk yaklasik 4 saat suruyor. Arabamiz Bagan sinirlarindan iceriye girdiginde ise Jb ile yine bir göz goze gelis ani yasiyoruz ve ilk tepkim “biraz daha yavas gidebilir miyiz ?” oluyor. Adini hatirlayamadigim soforumuz aynadan bana gururla karisik gulumsuyor ve yavasliyor. Ilk anda gorduklerimi ve 3 gun boyunca goreceklerimi hafizamin en derinlerine saklamak adina her ani sindire sindire, yavas yavas yasamak icin elimden geleni yapiyorum. Daha gelir gelmez bu macera hic bitmesin istiyorum.

Actually, our trip starts in Bangkok (it will be the topic of another post). After spending a day there, we arrive in Mandalay with the morning flight and our real adventure starts at that moment. We pass through the customs and our driver greets us to bring us to Bagan. This is our first meeting with skirt-like Longyi as well. The first step out of the airport we are welcomed by a dry and warm weather which I find more pleasant than Bangkok. Not aware of the beautiful roads that we’ll pass through, we get into car. The trip lasts about 4 hours. When our car enters Bagan, our eyes meet with JB, then I suddenly ask our driver “Could we slow down a little bit, please ?”. He proudly smiles, casting me a glance with the help of the mirror and slows down. As it’s impossible to stop the time, at least I want to live everything in slow motion in Bagan. So, I’m doing my best to keep in my memory everything I see and will see in the next 3 days. From the very beginning of this adventure, I wish that it never ends.

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Yeni Bagan’daki hostelimize vardik. Anahtarlarimiz teslim edilirken çisi gelmis sabirsiz bir cocuk gibi wifi sifresini istiyorum. Hostelin sahibi Italyan genc adam sifreyi verirken gururla “Bagan’in en hizli interneti bizde” diyor  (Bir kac gun icerisinde bu bilginin gercekten dogru olduguna sahit oluyoruz cunku Burmalilar internete aslinda “internay” diyor cunku “nay”, Burma dilinde yavas anlamina geliyor) ve ekliyor “yarim saat icinde gun batimi turu yapacagim, katilmak ister misiniz?”. Biz zaten coktan haziriz. Icimiz icimize sigmiyor ve gunes hala tepedeyken hostelde pineklemeye hic niyetimiz yok. Valizleri odaya yerlestirip, kameramizi kontrol ettikten sonra assagiya iniyoruz. Hemen hostelin karsisindan e-bisikletlerimizi kiralayip grubu beklemeye koyuluyoruz. Bizi bekleyen buyuk maceradan habersiz, cok heyecanliyiz. Insanlar yavas yavas belirmeye basliyor. Fransizca konustugumuzu duyan biri Kanada’li, Isvicreli ve digeri Alman 3 maceraperest kizla kaynasiveriyoruz. Bisiklet cetesi yola koyulmaya hazir! Tapinaklara giden yollar hep buyulu birde tozlu tabi… Bisikletimiz o tozlu yollarda ilerlerken yuzume ilik bir ruzgar carpiyor, tum sac tellerimde hissediyorum, icimde anlatamadigim bir mutluluk… Tapinagin onune variyoruz, terlikler disarda kaliyor, giristeki buyuk Buda heykeline selam verip, karanligin icerisinde, bizi nasil bir manzaranin beklediginden habersiz, adim adim, buyuk bir sabirsizlikla merdivenleri cikiyoruz.

Upon our arrival to our hostel, we receive our keys. Then I ask the wifi password like a kid who needs to pee urgently. While he was giving it, the Italian owner proudly says; “we have the fastest connection of Bagan !” (In couple of days we get the gist of the information. Because the Burmese call the Internet the “internay”—nay being the Burmese word for slow) and he adds: “I’m arranging a sunset tour, if you want, be ready in half an hour downstairs with your e-bikes ! ” We are already ready for that! After dropping our luggages into our room, making the last check for the camera and renting our e-bike just across the road, we’re ready to go. We’re bursting with joy oblivious of the adventure waiting for us. People start to show up one by one. We take an immediate likewise to 3 adventurous girls- from Quebec, Switzerland and Germany- who speak perfectly French. The bicycle gang is ready to gun ! The paths through the temples are fascinating. While our bike is moving on the dusty and bumpy paths, I feel the breeze sweeping my face, I feel it in every wisp of my hair. Unspeakable happiness… Finally, everybody stops in front of a huge temple. While leaving our flip flops outside, with a huge curiosity, we enter by passing in front of a big Buddha, climbing the stairs step by step.

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Gün batimi… Yüzyillar once insa edilmis bir tapinagin taslari uzerinde, gunesin sayamayacagim kadar cok  tapinagin arasinda kaybolusunu izlememenin verdigi his fotograf karelerime ne kadar yansir bilemiyorum. Bildigim tek sey essiz bir manzaranin tam ortasinda olusum. Butun bu sessizligin ve dingiligin icinde duydugumuz tek sey kameralardan gelen denklansor sesleri ve gruptan bir kac kisinin mirildanmalari. Manzaranin gizemini ustumden yavas yavas atmaya basladigimda arkamdan gelen seslere kulak veriyorum. Iki aksan var birisi yeni fotograf cekmeye baslamis Fransiz bir kizin aksani digeri de hayatinin buyuk bir kismini ulke ulke gezip -97 tane olmus bile- fotograf cekmeye adamis bir Istanbullu, Evrim. Arkami donuyorum ve aninda ingilizce “Turk musunuz?” diye soruyorum. Saskinlikla “Yes” diyor hemen Evrim. Hemen dili degistiriyoruz. Bir tapinagin uzerinde baslayan arkadasligimiz tum Myanmar gezisi boyunca suruyor. Eminim dunyanin daha bambaska koselerinde tekrardan karsilasacagiz bu inanilmaz adamla.

Sunset… I don’t know how I can reflect on my photos, the feeling of watching the sun disappearing behind hundreds of temples while sitting on one of them. The only thing I know is that it is precious finding myself in the middle of this moment. In the ultimate silence, only thing we hear is the sound of some shutter and murmuring. Then, I listen to the conversation behind just after I am liberated by the magical atmosphere. I recognise the dominant accent of the French girl (which is something French can not hide well) and the Turkish man (which isn’t really hard for me) with his huge lens that can almost show the moon. Suddenly, I ask “are you Turkish?” He answers with his warm smile “Yes!” The conversation switches into Turkish. Evrim is a muse, a real wanderlust -97 countries, no joke- who dedicated his life to taking thousands of photos from different corners of the world. In this way, a friendship starts on the temple, continues until the end of our Burma adventure. I’m sure we are going to meet again somewhere around the world with this inspirational man.

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Gun batti… Hava hafiften karardi. Dunyanin neresinde olursak olalim aperatif saati kacmaz. Bisikletlerimiz geri donus yoluna hazir. Birkaci haric. Sehre varisimizin ilk saatlerinde kiraldigimiz bisikletlerin bataryasinin aslinda kiralarken ilk dikkat etmemiz gereken sey oldugunu anliyoruz. Italyan ile Turk’u geride birakiyoruz. Genclerin beklemeye niyeti yok. Hep beraber takiliyoruz kendinden emin bir Amerikalinin pesine. Yola cikiyoruz, aklimizda bugunun serefine yudumlayacagimiz Myanmar birasinin hayali… Ama bu hayalin beklenenden biraz daha uzun sureceginden hic haberimiz yok. Biraz yol alinca yanlis yolda oldugumuzu farkediyorum. Hafiften JB’e fisildiyorum. 5 dk sonra yalniz olmadigimiz ortaya cikiyor ve herkes duruyor. Caresiz bir sekilde “Guney, yok yok kuzey, hadi bir surdan gidelimler…” Bu konusmalarla birlikte “tapinak tarlasi”nin ve karanligin tam ortasinda, GPS siz, haritasiz (zaten olsalarda ise yaramiyor) icgudulerimizden baska hicbir seyimiz olmadan bir o yana bir bu yana gitmemiz birkac saati buluyor. Megan: “Hey millet kendi Indiana Jones maceramizin tam ortasindayiz, tadini cikartin!”diyor. Kahkahalar kopuyor ama hepsi caresizligimizden…  Tamam! Hos bir sakanin icinde bulduk kendimizi. Yalan yok bu durumdan cokta hosnuttuk cunku sonunda anlatacak bir kahramanlik hikayemiz olacakti. Ama her sakanin da bir sonu var. Bu karanlik kumlu yollarinda bir sonu gelsin istiyoruz. Kimi bisikletlerin sarji bitiyor. Onlari arkamizda birakmak zorunda kaliyoruz. Icgudulerimizle birlikte tekrardan yola koyuluyoruz. En sonunda bir isik beliriyor biraz uzakta, araba farlari olmali… Isigi takip edince, bir kac koyluyle karsilasiyoruz. Kaybolmuslugun caresizligi yuzumuzun her bir noktasindan okunuyor olacak ki, konusmaya bile gerek kalmadan bizleri ana yola cikartiyorlar. Gerisi sevinc cigliklari tabi… Hostele bir kahraman havasiyla girip ulasilmasi zor olan biralarimizi ismarliyoruz. Digerlerinden bahsediyoruz, “ama cikmak zorundaydik” gibi cumlelerle icimizi rahatlatmaya calisiyoruz derken bir saat sonra geliyorlar. Buyuk bir masa etrafinda yeni tanistigimiz insanlarla biralarimizi icerken hikayelerimizi anlatirken buluyoruz kendimizi. Hostelleri neden daha cok sevdigimi bir kez daha anliyorum.

Sun is gone. The night is almost there. Doesn’t matter where we are, we don’t miss the iconic happy hour. Our bikes are ready to back except some of them; there, we face with the battery truth which you should be careful while renting your e-bike. Anyway, we’re leaving our Italian and Turkish guys behind and decide to follow the American in our group who has an ultimate self confidence. While leaving the paradise there is one thing that we dream; a cold, well deserved bottle of  “Myanmar”. Of course no one knows yet that we gonna have to wait a little bit more for this desire. After covering a bit of distance, I suddenly realise that we have never passed by there. I try to whisper to JB, he agrees but no panic! Voilà! The expected moment is came. Talkings starts “ yes, this way, no no we should move through north…” Let’s don’t cheat each other; we’re lost in the middle of “pagoda field” without light, navigation, map, anything but our instincts. This adventure takes our one hour. Then Megan, Quebecer, shouts; “hey guys we’re in our Indiana Jones movie, enjoy!!!” We all laugh in a very hectic and desperate manner. Some bikes can’t resist the tough, sandy and bumpy paths and their exhausted low batteries let them down. Ok. It seem quite enjoyable this little joke but sometimes you should brevity in the soul of wit. We want to move out the darkness. So, we leave the poor people who have no battery anymore, listen our instincts, move forward into the “field”. Suddenly, we see the light. It must be a headlamp, there must be a way ! By following the light, we come upon some local people. It was so obvious from our faces that we’re lost, no need to speak, they ask us to follow them.  Screaming, “ whaauuuuhh we did it!!!”. Although try to clear our consciences by saying “but we had to leave”,  our mind is still on the poor ones. We arrive in our hostel, order the “hard to reach” beer. After an hour, the missing ones appear. Spontaneously, around a big table, we find ourselves sharing our stories while sipping our beers. Then, I understand why hostels are my all time favourite.

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Yuzyillar icerisinde adi hep degismis olan ve Ingilizlerin Pagan diye adlandirdigi, askeri cunta’nin 1989′ da degistirdigi Bagan, 4bin e yakin tapinaga ev sahipligi yapiyor. Bunlardan buyuk bir cogunlugu hala aktif bir sekilde kullanilmakta. Gozunuz korkmasin hemen. Binlercesinin arasinda sizlere kacirmamaniz gerekenleri siraliyorum;

Bagan, whose name changed during the centuries; called Pagan by English colony and renamed by military junta as Bagan in 1989, is  home of almost 4 thousand temples. Still today, most of them are actively used by Buddhists. I don’t mean to discourage you so, here I list the ones you shouldn’t miss inside thousands:

  • Pahto Ananda
  • Pahto Dhammayangyi
  • Upali Thein
  • Pahto Abeyadana
  • Paya Shwezigon
  • Pahto Sulamani
  • Nagayon
  • Gubyaukgyi
  • Pahto Lawkahteikpan

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Peki en guzel gun batimi nereden izlenir?

Aslinda akliniza neresi eserse, buldugunuz, yolunuza cikan en guzel tapinaktan izleyin demek isterdim lakin; 1 Mart 2016’da çıkan yeni bir yasaya gore, eserlerin kaliciligini korumak adina, karar verilen 5 tapinak disinda, istediginiz her yere tirmanamayacakmissiniz. Bu yasa henuz yururluge girmemisken donmus olmanin da hakli mutlulugu icerisindeyiz tabi. Cunku biz Bagan’da 4 gun batimina sahit olduk. Ikisini tavsiye uzerine, diger ikisini de kalabaliktan kacmak icin, kendi kararlarimiz dogrultusunda, canimiz nerede isterse orda bisikletimizi park ettik ve  ismini bile bilmedigimiz bir tapinagin uzerinden ugurladik gunesi. Sizlerle en bilindik 4 tanesini paylasacagim. Hepsinin manzarasi essiz fakat hepsinin boyutuna gore ziyaretcisi oldugunu unutmamakta da fayda var.

Best sunset spots ?

I’d like to say climb wherever comes to your mind, any beautiful temple stand in your way but the government originally announced it would institute the ban which will not allow the tourists climbing on pagodas(except five of the largest ones) from 1 March 2016, blaming the move on tourists behaving badly, such as dancing on top of a pagoda. Although it’s a bit sad hearing this news, at the same time, we feel so happy to been there just before this law go in effect. We had 4 amazing sunsets in Bagan. 2 of them are according to our Lonely Planet, the other 2 places was totally our choice. We only stop our bikes according to our own initiative and send off the sun over a temple even without knowing its name. I’m going to share four of these five biggest ones. But you shouldn’t forget; each has their own visitor intensity according to their sizes.

  • Paya Shwesandaw (en bilindik ve en kalabalik/ the most known and crowded one)
  • Buledi
  • Paya Pyathada
  • Thabeik Hmauk (en sakin olani / the calmest one)

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Gitmeden once bilmeniz gerekenler,

  • Vize almak sart. Ayrintili bilgi icin (evisa.moip.gov.mm)
  • Temel para birimi Kyat olsada yaninizda bir miktar Amerikan Dolari bulundurmaniz iyi olur. Fakat oyle her dolari kabul emiyor Burmalilar; katlanmamis, lekesiz, yepyeni, anlayacaginiz gicir gicir banknotlar bulundurmalisiniz . Kyat cekebileceginiz ATM ler ise hemen hemen her sehrin merkezinde mevcut.
  • Gidebileceginiz en guvenli, insanlarin en guler yuzlu ve inanilmaz derecede yardimsever oldugu ulkelerden bir tanesi. Cunku turist kavrami cok yeni bir kavram onlar icin. Kendinizi oldukca guvende hissedeceksiniz bundan emin olun.
  • Tapinaklara girerken tamamen yalinayak olmaniz gerekiyor. Budistler icin cok onemli bir saygi gostergesi. Bu yuzden Myanmar kapali ayakkabi giymek icin pek uygun bir yer degil. Flip-floplarinizi yaninizdan ayirmayin boylelikle surekli ayakkabinizi giyip cikartmakla vakit kaybetmezsiniz.
  • Tek kural bu degil tabi ki; ayaklar oldukca yalinken, omuzlarinizi ve dizlerinizi ortecek kiyafetler giymeniz gerekiyor. Yaniniza efil efil pantolonlarinizi almanizi onenerim. Orada inanilmaz isinize yarayacak.
  • Yaninizda  mutlaka sapkaniz olsun. Bisikletle tum gun o tapinaktan bu tapinaga derken basinizi korumakta fayda var. Tabi ki tapinaklarin icine girerken cikartmayi unutmuyoruz.
  • Bir insani ya da bir nesneyi gostermek icin ayaklarinizi asla kullanmayin. Kimsenin, ozellikle de cocuklarin, kafasina dokunmayin.
  • Son olarak kendi dillerinde soyleyeceginiz bir kac kelime ile guzel bir gulucuk hem sizi hem de onlarin gunune nese katacaktir, hic cekinmeyin.

Things will help you before your trip:

  • You must have a visa before your departure . For more information, please check (evisa.moip.gov.mm)
  • Although the currency is kyat, you might need some American Dollars for larger amounts. But they have to be in a perfect conditions. I mean, they should be almost new, not folded or no stain on it. You might not get kyat before your trip but don’t worry there will be enough ATMs all around.
  • Burma is one of the most secure place you can go in Southeast Asia. So, you’ll not feel uneasy. On the contrary, you’re going to meet the most friendly and gracious people of your life.
  • You need to take off your shoes before entering the temples. This is demonstration of a respect for Buddhists. That’s why Burma isn’t a good place to wear closed shoes. The best and the lightest option is your sandals or simply your flip-flops.
  • Another dressing code: you rarely see anyone expose their knees or shoulders, and you will make everyone more comfortable if you follow suit. Take your easy going, light, summer pants. While they’re saving your life, they’re going to protect you from the mosquitos.
  • A hat is a must have. While wandering around from one temple to another over your bike. It’s important to protect your head from burning sun. Of course, you don’t forget to take it off in temples.
  • Never use your feet to point at a person or thing and don’t touch anybody’s head especially the kids’.
  • Lastly, a smile always goes a long way, as does knowing a few words in Burmese.

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Gitmeden once Myanmar’i biraz daha yakindan taniyayim diyenler;

  • Luc Besson’un yonetmenligini yaptigi Aung San Suu Kyi’nin hayatini mukemmel bir sekilde anlatan “The Lady” filmini izleyiniz
  • Eger Fransizca biliyorsaniz Pierre Loti’nin “Altin Tapinaklar” anlamina gelen, “Les Pagodes d’or” ‘unu,
  • George Orwell’in, sizi Burma’nin Ingiliz kolonisi oldugu donemlere goturen “Burma Gunleri”‘ni,
  • Emma Larkin’in George Orwell’in anilarindan esinlenerek yazdigi “Finding George Orwell in Burma” sini okumanizi tavsiye ederim.

Do you want to know more about Burma ?

  • Watch  Luc Besson’s The Lady which reflects perfectly hard life of Aung San Suu Kyi
  • If you speak French, read Pierre Loti’s “Les Pagodes d’or”
  • Read George Orwell’s “Burmese Days” which will bring you the times in Burma under British colony 
  • After George Orwell, read Emma Larkin’s “Finding George Orwell in Burma” that she tells of the year she spent travelling through Burma, using as a compass the life and book of him.

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Bagan’dan hatira kalsin derseniz;

  • Old Bagan’daki pazarlardan yerel halkin kullandigi hemen hemen her yerde karsiniza cikacak renkli, plastik orgu pazar cantalarindan almanizi oneririm. Ben Thailand’da plaj cantasi olarak kullandim. Evde ise dergilik olarak kullaniyoruz.
  • Bagan ayrica lake el isciligiyle unlu bir yer. Tapinaklara giderken yol uzerinde bir cok atolye goreceksiniz ama bu isi profosyonelce yapan Bagan House’u ziyaret etmenizi oneririm. Birsey almasaniz bile, birbirinden guzel lakelerin nasil yapildigina canli canli sahit olmak icin bu renkli bahceye mutlaka girin. Ayrica kredi karti kabul ediyorlar.

Do you want some souvenirs from Bagan?

  • I suggest you buy the plastic, colorful market bags that almost every local uses. I used it as a beach bag in Thailand and now, at home we use as a decoration object; we put our magazines in it.
  • No visit to Bagan is complete without a visit to a lacquerware shop. Bagan lacquerware is highly regarded as the finest quality domestically and internationally. An ancient skill and art to be experienced. Bagan House Lacquerware offers a vast selection of both traditional Burmese pieces alongside modern pieces in a relaxed welcoming and inspiring setting. A cultural experience not to be missed.

Nerede kalalim ?

Bagan aslinda Eski Bagan, Yeni Bagan ve Nyaung U diye uce ayriliyor. Eski ve Yeni Bagan’in arasi ise yaklasik 5 km. Tapinaklarin cogu Eski Bagan’da. Bu yuzden de Eski Bagan’daki hotellerin fiyatlariyla Yeni Bagan ve Nyaung U’daki otellerin fiyatlari arasinda farkliliklar var. Nyaung U aralarinda en uygun fiyatlari bulabileceginiz yer.  Biz  Yeni Bagan’da kalmayi tercih ettik. Fiyatlar ortalama civarlarda. Tercihimizi henuz bu sene acilmis yeni bir hostel olan Ostello Bello’dan yana kullaniyoruz. Internet baglantisi Bagan standartlarinin cok uzerinde. Her yastan, dunyanin her yerinden guzel insanlarla tanisacaginiz garanti. Yemekler, odalar gayet yerinde, guzel ve temiz. Kalan herkes halinden cok memnun. Aksamlari hep beraber oynanan bingo gunun tum yorgunlugunu alip goturuyor. Sonra masa da o gun kim varsa hikayelerini dinliyorsun. Burada herkes gezgin. Aylardir yolda. Bizde hafif bir mahcubiyet tabiki ama halimizden memnunuz bakmayin oyle dedigime, boylelikle gelecek hedefleri dinliyor, notlar aliyoruz. Yolunuz Bagan’a duserse ilerleyen yillarda Bagan’in bir numarasi olacagindan emin oldugum Ostello Bello ya da dussun mutlaka. Myanmar biranizdan yudumlarken beni anmayi da unutmayin, olur mu ?

Where can we stay ?

Bagan is divided into three parts; Old Bagan, New Bagan and Nyaung U. The distance between New and Old Bagan is around 5 km and most of the important temples are sited in Old Bagan. This explains simply why there are differences in hotel prices between New, Old Bagan and Nyaung U. Nyaung U is the most reasonable place to stay if you have a limited budget but it’s a little bit far from the centre. We preferred the stay in New Bagan. Hotel prices are still cheaper than Old Bagan and you’re still in the “area”.  We stayed in Hostel Ostello Bello for three nights where the internet speed are over Bagan standard. The food and the rooms are clean and well. Everybody, including us, is quite satisfied with the service. Add to that, be sure, you will meet really nice people of all ages from all over the world. At night, board games are played ,such as bingo, are taking all the tiredness of the day away. People, with whom you’re sitting at the same table, tell their road adventures. Everyone here is a traveller who has been on the road for months. After listening them, we fell a little bit embarrassed but at the same time they make us dream about new destinations. If you ever find yourself in Bagan, I highly suggest Ostello Bello, where I believe will be number one in Bagan in the upcoming years. While you’re there don’t forget to remember of me while sipping your Myanmar beer.

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